Monday, July 27, 2020

Kazimierz, Krakow, Poland

Kazimierz, the heart of Jewish Krakow, is a thriving district, a mixture of cultural festivals, sidewalk cafés, antique shops, art galleries, restaurants and bars, a place to watch the world go by over a coffee or hot gluhwien during the winter months.


However, it would be wrong to talk about Kazimierz merely in those terms, for any visitor, regardless of nationality or religious persuasion, it's worth pointing out that Kazimierz's history spans centuries.



It was originally established in 1335 and named after its founder, King Kazimierz Wielki (Casimir the Great), who intended it to rival the established city of Krakow.

Kazimierz 1936

It remains one of the most culturally significant Jewish areas in the world. In 1495, the Jews who were expelled from Krakow settled here, and Kazimierz became a mixture of Christian and Jewish culture.


During the Second World War the Nazis did all they could to destroy and ruin Kazimierz. After the war, decades of communist neglect left Kazimierz a crumbling ruin. It became a dark and dangerous place, a district to be avoided after nightfall – even today be aware when strolling around the unlit back streets.


With communism's fall, Kazimierz has changed beyond all recognition. As well as the aforementioned art galleries and cafés, buildings have been renovated and museums opened. There has also been a reawakening in the importance of Jewish history and culture in Poland; for instance, the Jewish Culture Festival, which takes place every year, attracts thousands of visitors, both Jews and non-Jews alike.


Quirky street-side bars.
Perhaps one of the most important factors in Kazimierz's renewal was Steven Spielberg's film, Schindler's List, which was filmed here and generated intense interest in the area. During my visit, numerous movie scenes were being filmed in and around the peeling facades, wooden shutters and smoky cafes.

Stairs where Mrs Dresner hid in the Schinlder's List movie.

Courtyard in the 1930s.
Courtyard in Schindler's List movie


If you visit Krakow, you must take the time to stroll around Kazimierz and visit the markets and quirky bars, I was particularly fond of the cosy cellar bars with their gypsy musicians.





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