Monday, July 27, 2020

Singapore


The Republic of Singapore, off the southern tip of the Malay Peninsula is 85 miles north of the equator.  It is separated from Malaysia by the Straits of Johor and from Indonesia by the Singapore Strait.

Sunrise over the Lion City

I have visited Singapore on numerous occasions and always enjoy the diverse mix of its nearly 5 million inhabitants.  Chinese, Malays, Indians and Asians of various descent account for about 40% of the population.  Singapore is today the world’s fourth leading financial centre, is one of the five busiest ports in the world and plays a key role in international trade and finance.

Marina Bay Sands Hotel

The story of Singapore as we know it began in 1819, when Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles made a deal with the claimant to the throne of the Sultanate of Johor;  The British would support his claim in exchange for the right to set up a trading post on the island.  Well-placed at the entrance to the Straits of Malacca, straddling the trade routes between China, India, Europe, and Australia, Raffles' masterstroke was to declare Singapore a free port, with no duties charged on trade.

Parliament

The trading post soon grew into one of Asia's busiest, drawing people from far and wide. Along with Penang and Malacca, Singapore became one of the Straits Settlements and a jewel in the British colonial crown.  Its economic fortunes received a further boost when palm oil and rubber from neighbouring Malaya were processed and shipped out via Singapore.

Riverside appartments

When World War II broke out, Fortress Singapore was seen as a formidable British base, with massive naval fortifications guarding against assault by sea.  However, not only did the fortress lack a fleet as all ships were tied up defending Britain from the Germans, but the Japanese wisely chose to cross Malaya by bicycle instead!

Late night shopping

Despite hastily turning the guns around, this was something the British had not prepared for at all, and on February 15, 1942, with supplies critically low after less than a week of fighting,  Singapore ignominiously surrendered and the colony's erstwhile rulers were packed off to Changi Prison.  Tens of thousands perished in the subsequent brutal occupation, and the return of the British in 1945 was less than triumphant — it was clear that their time was up.

Granted self-rule in 1955, Singapore briefly joined Malaysia in 1963 when the British left, but became totally independent on 9 August 1965.

Today, no visit to Singapore is complete without sampling afternoon high tea at Raffles Hotel, followed by the rather sickly tasting and vastly overpriced Singapore Sling, served in the hotels’ Long Bar.

Raffles Hotel

Raffles Courtyard

Raffles chef at work

Great shopping can be had in the Orchard Road area, but don’t expect many bargains in electronics, including cameras; better deals are available back in UK.  Nightlife and eating out is to be found along the Singapore river area, Clarke Quay with its’ gimmicky bars being the most popular.  The Highlander Bar in Clarke Quay has a prime people watching location, serving traditional Scottish fare with a contemporary twist, the smoked kipper toasty is well worth a try.

Clarke Quay

I find it best to avoid the Boat Quay area with its tacky bars offering traditional English pub fare and live British football (my pet hate when overseas), including the quintessential London themed pub Penny Black and next door, Harry’s Bar – supposedly frequented by rouge trader Nick Leeson of Barings Bank fame.

Boat Quay

If you venture further upstream towards Robertson Quay, you will find a pleasant respite from all the in your face tourist hassle.  I particular enjoy the Boomarang Bar, which is frequented by Aussie expats, where riverside barbies are not uncommon over the weekend.

Singapore River

Singapore has a lot to offer the visitor, most of whom will be on a stopover between long haul flights.  It is not a place to spend any more than three/four days;  it is, as with most big cities very expensive. If you can, enjoy your refreshments during the numerous ‘happy hours’!

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